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Cockroaches – Roach Killer, Roach Control & Extermination …

All of the products you need to implement a roach control program in apartment buildings and other large spaces.

Rotation kit ideal for beginning or cleanout treatments of cockroach infestations in homes, apartments, and similar areas.

Kit contains all the professional products you need for complete roach control treatment in a home, apartment, or small commercial area

Kit contains the professional products you need for complete treatment in a home, apartment, or small commercial area

New York Roach Control Kit Rotation B is perfect to use in rotation with our other NY Roach Control Kits for complete roach treatment in homes, apartments, and similar small areas

Kit ideal for rotation treatment for roaches in apartments, houses, offices, or similar small treatment areas

Due to Fipronil and its accelerated Domino Effect, Maxforce Small Roach Bait Stations start to kill roaches in just eight hours.

Achieves a rapid reduction of roach populations indoors and out. 60 gm. tube.

A roach bait gel that kills roaches by ingestion and contact and spreads to the other roaches.

A professional roach bait gel with a new active ingredient that rivals the popular Maxforce Roach baits.

An ant gel attractant that mimics honeydew and enhances bait acceptance by a variety of protein feeding ants, sweet feeding ants and roaches.

A professional roach control with these easy-to-use roach bait stations with an active ingredient that spreads throughout the roach population for more effective and complete control.

Supplement your roach program with FC Magnum – Magnum has five times the Fipronil of other baits plus it kills on contact.

High-performance gel bait from MGK with Abamectin B1. Attracts both bait-averse and non-averse roaches.

A professional granular insecticide bait that treats many insects including ants, silverfish and roaches for lawns & gardens and inside the home.

Powerful new roach bait with Imidacloprid and 11 attractants to rapidly control even the most bait-averse german roaches.

A granular insecticide bait that may be used indoors and outdoors in the home and lawn and garden for a variety of insects.

Two modes of action, one deadly bait. Combines NyGuard IGR and Vendetta Cockroach Bait in one tube.

All of the products you need to implement a roach control program in apartment buildings and other large spaces.

Supplement your roach program with Maxforce Impact – a completely reformulated bait matrix with the new ingredient Clothianidin that works quicker than other products.

A gel bait insecticide that eliminates roaches, silverfish and ants including the queen and the colony.

A roach bait that is highly effective, economical and can be included on organic certified facilities.

Magnetic Roach Bait has been loved to death by roaches for over 25 years.

A patented professional platform that lets you present gel baits without leaving any stains or residues.

A broad-spectrum gel bait for control of pest cockroach species including adverse strains.

A high-performance gel bait technology formulated to be attractive and efficient even on the toughest cockroach population.

Your Roach Extermination Center: Roach Control Products, Cockroach Killer and Roach Killer Pest Control Products

Roach control requires using the right professional products. We are the largest do-it-yourself pest control supplier of professional grade roach control products and supplies in the United States. Using roach bait is generally the preferred method of treatment, especially for indoor roach control. However, a combination of roach control products including using roach spray around the exterior of the home will ensure that roaches don’t come in.

Our professional roach control products are the same professional roach products that are used by pest control companies. When you need cockroach control products and roach killer spray fast, you can depend on DoMyOwnPestControl.com for Fast, Free shipping and expert advice.

Our kitchens are warm, have food and water sources. They are natural places for some pests to thrive. The most problematic kitchen pests are cockroaches–unsavory creatures that disgust nearly everyone.Many people mistakenly believe that only “dirty” people get cockroaches, but this is a myth. Every home or commercial kitchen has the potential to have a cockroach problem.

Once a cockroach infestation gets started, its severity is usually determined by the resources available for cockroach survival–food, water and harborage (i.e., hiding places). The biggest cockroach problems are often in homes where there is a clutter problem because the more stuff people have, especially in the kitchen, the more hiding places for roaches. But, clean, neat and tidy kitchens can still have roaches. For example, cockroaches can hide underneath the labels of canned goods and eat the paste off the labels.

Because cockroaches tend to frequent garbage cans, sewers and other disease-laden locations, germs attach to their body that can transfer to food contact surfaces (utensils, plates) during the normal course of roach activities. These include disease-causing bacteria: Salmonella, Shigella, E. coli, Streptococcus (pneumonia), several helminths (hookworm, pinworms, tapeworms), and even viruses (poliomyelitis). If this hasn’t convinced you they are bad to live with, cockroaches also produce a powerful allergen that causes allergies and asthma.

The biggest problem in U.S. kitchens is the German cockroach, Blattella germanica. It is a small cockroach, with two distinctive longitudinal is just behind its head. The German cockroach requires moisture regularly, has a high reproductive rate and is small enough to live in small cracks and crevices. Infestations are often at their worst in the late summer months.

STEP 1: Ensure you are practicing proper sanitation techniques in your home

Never leave sources of food or water exposed. Clean up spills immediately. Do not leave pet water and food out 24 hours a day. During the daytime, you can place your pets dish in a plate filled with soapy water. Because soap has some insecticidal properties, roaches venturing into the water will be killed. Keep food in tightly sealed plastic or glass containers, rather than in paper or cardboard containers that the roaches can chew through. Regularly clean around and beneath appliances, sinks and other locations close to a food source where dark and/or humid conditions exist. A layer of accumulated grease behind a stove will allow several adult roaches to survive and reproduce. Empty drainage pans under refrigerators to eliminate this source of water for the roaches. Clean the kitchen thoroughly every day. Store garbage in sealed plastic containers and dispose of it daily. Do not allow dirty dishes to accumulate, especially overnight. If you do not have the time to wash them immediately, immerse them in a strong solution of detergent and water. Vacuum your home regularly to help remove food particles and insect egg masses. Wrap or insulate pipes that have excessive amounts of condensation, repair leaky faucets and pipes, ventilate rooms and dehumidify areas of excess moisture to reduce availability of water from these sources. Controlling humidity and increasing the light and air circulation in problem areas will help control infestations.

STEP 2: Use the Right Professional Products

The standard method of treating for cockroaches has been to spray insecticides on baseboards and in cupboards, with the hope that cockroaches will crawl across the band of dried insecticide and the residue left from the application will. We now know that this type of treatment is not very effective. Reasons why include:

Cockroaches do not live behind baseboards, but live in dark, damp locations near food and water sources. Efforts to locate and treat these hiding places are much more effective. Insecticides are not 100 percent effective and, unless efforts are made to reduce food, water and harborage, populations of the prolific German cockroach are likely to rebound. Cockroaches species, including the German cockroach, have developed insecticidal resistance to many insecticides. Most insecticidal sprays, especially aerosol treatments, don’t have much residual activity. This is also true of “bomb” type applications.

It is possible to eradicate cockroaches, but effort and persistence must be greater than their reproductive rate. To be successful, a multi-tactic approach must be used. This means not relying on a single strategy (like sprays), but using several types of control tactics. Sanitation efforts alone (eliminating food, water, harborage) may not be enough to eliminate a cockroach problem, but will reduce the population and make other control efforts work better. Getting rid of clutter is extremely important. Eliminating water and food will make roaches move farther to obtain them and come into contact with baits and other control tactics. Cleaning cupboards and under/around appliances is important. Keep a vacuum cleaner handy. Vacuuming roaches is an easy way to make a dent in the population. Just be sure to take the vacuum cleaner bag outside afterwards. Because roaches usually travel pretty close to where they hide, use sticky traps (glue boards) to see where roaches are hiding. Replace them when the surface is covered with roaches. Over time, glue boards will indicate how well controls are working and identify new infestations.

The biggest improvement in controlling cockroaches in recent years is the availability of effective bait products. They are available in small plastic containers (bait stations) or as a dispensable gel. Baits use fipronil, hydamethylnon, boric acid or abamectin as their active ingredient. Use gel baits (best) or bait stations in areas where roaches are caught on sticky traps. Bait areas where roach specks are foundthese are locations where roaches spend a lot of time.

Other low toxic approaches include: Use boric acid dusts in wall voids or under appliances. When used alone, Boric acidisn’t terribly effective, but a good supplementary treatment. When roaches walk through the dustitsticks to their body. They ingest it as they groom themselves and it is a slow-acting stomach poison. Dusts of silica dioxide or diatomaceous earth kill roaches by abrading their waxy cuticle and desiccating them. Use these in wall voids. Use cold or hot temperatures to kill roaches. If roaches get into electronic appliances, bag them and put them in the freezer overnight.

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Cockroaches – Roach Killer, Roach Control & Extermination …

Cost to Hire an Ant Exterminator – Estimates and Prices at …

How much does it cost to hire an ant exterminator?

For many people, there is no worse sign of a dirty or unkept home than the infiltration of pests such as ants. Unfortunately, ants are a common pest that can be found in numerous homes and buildings – even those that are clean and sanitary. Ants are attracted by things such as warmth, food particles, and in the case of carpenter ants even your homes structure. Any ant can bite, and while they dont carry diseases, they can contaminate food and, according to the CDC, some species of fire ant can be a serious problem for young children, the elderly, and those with health issues as their stings can be painful or cause negative reactions. Ants can also impact your garden, decrease the amount of wildlife nearby, and in the case of carpenter ants may even do serious damage to your home.

They are typically found near sources of food. For the majority of the ants youll find indoors, this means on counters, on the floor beneath tables and chairs, inside cabinets, and anywhere food crumbs may typically be dropped. Carpenter ants may also be found inside your window casings, baseboards, attic, and any other areas where there is both abundant wood and easy access from the outdoors.

If you find ants indoors, youll also likely find them outside as well. For the majority of ants, this typically isnt a problem, but if you have fire ants or carpenter ants you may want to deal with the nests or mounds as well to prevent them from getting indoors.

On average, the cost of a general anttreatment excluding fire and carpenter ants in a3,000 sq.ft. house is $250.

There are numerous species of ants in the world, but most people living in the US will see a few of the more common ones on a regular basis. No ant is good to have indoors, but a few are more harmless than others; identifying which ant you have will help you get the most effective treatment to be rid of them:

When an ant enters your home for the first time, its looking for food. If it finds some, it leaves a trail from the food source back to its colony for other ants to follow. This is in part what makes it so difficult to get rid of the ants; this trail is invisible to the human eye. Ants can enter through very small cracks and crevices as well, so its important not just to kill the ants currently in your home, but to eradicate their trail and seal up any cracks or crevices with caulk1 to ensure they cannot re enter.

The type of extermination method that you or your exterminator will use is largely based on the type of ant and where the infestation is located. A thorough cleaning, keeping food sealed up and shut away, and sealing up any cracks in your home are all necessary to avoid the ants returning after they have been killed:

A typical visit from an exterminator will last one to two hours, and will cost from $150 to $1000 for the treatment, depending on the type of ant. You may require more than one treatment, and your exterminator may recommend the services of a handyman at a rate of $60 to $90 an hour to seal up any cracks in or around your home where ants are getting in.

In many cases, simply eradicating the existing ants is not enough to stop them from coming back; you also need to do some kind of preventative control. If this is a serious problem, having a monthly service may help. Otherwise, you can take the following steps to prevent the ants from returning:

Many exterminators today recommend or use green or non-toxic pesticides to control the ants. These are particularly important if you have children or pets in your home. Typically there is no additional cost, as most exterminators have already made the switch.

If you have carpenter or fire ants, it may be recommended that you work to eradicate the pests from your yard at a cost of $2 per nest. This will ensure the queen is killed and better reduces your chances of reinfestation.

If you have pests frequently returning to your home, it may be beneficial to have scheduled, monthly treatments. These usually run around $30 a month after an initial visit of about $80.

Unless you are dealing with fire ants or carpenter ants you may want to try getting the infestation under control yourself. There are many DIY methods available, many of which cost significantly less than professional treatment. These include:

Keep in mind that these methods may not prevent reinfestation if not used continuously, particularly during the early summer months.

Few exterminators offer guarantees for getting rid of ants. If you have a severe infestation, your best bet may be the two-step method followed by monthly maintenance to help ensure the ants do not return.

If you find evidence that insects have been eating the wood in your home, you may not be able to tell at first glance if they are ants or termites. Both will wreck havoc on your home, but in very different ways. Termites actually ingest the wood, while the ants tunnel through it. To tell the difference, take a look at the damaged area. A termite is a messy pest, leaving behind a lot of soil and debris in its wake; an ant is clean and will leave behind neat tunnels and passages through your wood. Both should be treated immediately to prevent future damage.

The most common method of getting rid of ants is to remove their food source, then use poisoned bait to kill both the ants in your home and in the nest.

The most common way to get rid of sugar ants or little black ants is to remove their food source by thoroughly cleaning your home, then using poisoned bait to kill the remaining ants and nest.

Ants are drawn to the kitchen in search of food. Removing the food source by putting away food and cleaning up crumbs will help rid your kitchen of ants. Poisoned bait can help kill any remaining ants.

There are many methods of controlling ants including removing their food source, using poisoned bait, chemical sprays, and monthly treatments by an exterminator.

The average cost of hiring an exterminator for pests like ants is around $250.

The cost of professional ant extermination is around $250, but can go as high as $1,400 including ongoing treatment.

Terminix does has a service to rid homes of ants, including monthly contracts with repeat visits.

Carpenter ants are winged ants of varying sizes which eat the wood in your homes framing and foundation.

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Cost to Hire an Ant Exterminator – Estimates and Prices at …

Squirrel Infestations: Signs & Treatment – Orkin.com

Squirrels are not likely to create a problem unless the population becomes so large that they begin to inflict damage or invade homes. Then, action must be taken or the results can result in some serious consequences, including damage and potential health-related issues.

Visual signs you may have a squirrel infestation, include:

Other signs you may have a squirrel infestation, include:

Should you need assistance with identifying the cause of any of these indicators, contact your pest management professional for their advice and assistance.

So, the first thing to do when experiencing a squirrel infestation is to seek out the advice and assistance of your pest management professional. Other things to manage the squirrel infestation include:

Exclusion. Inspect the exterior of the house and determine where squirrels are entering the attic. Look for holes, gaps or other openings and repair them. Use screen or sturdy hardware cloth to seal any openings such as roof vents, gable vents and soffit vents. Have squirrels and their young already made your attic their home? An easy way to determine the answer to this question is to stuff something such as newspaper or foam into the hole that squirrels may be using. If it is not pushed out or disturbed within a day or two, you can be reasonably sure that squirrels are not inside. Then, go ahead and do the exclusion work and repairs. Dont forget about chimneys because squirrels may crawl into a chimney and get stuck inside. If this happens, call your pest management professional and let him open the fireplace flue and capture the animal before it gets loose inside the home. If you are trying do-it-yourself solutions and the squirrel gets loose inside, open all exit doors and usually the squirrel will run out. However, the best way to keep squirrels out of the chimney is to install a chimney cap and prevent squirrels from getting into the chimney in the first place.

Eviction. Generally, the most effective method of evicting a squirrel is to use a one-way door cage at the site where the squirrel is gaining entrance into the attic. A one-way door is not a trap, but a cage that lets the squirrel exit but not re-enter. Sealing or screening the hole or gap prevents access to the attic.

Habitat Modification. Dont make it easy for squirrels to get on your roof and possibly into the attic. Any tree limbs growing over the roof or within about 8-10 feet of the edge of the roof must be trimmed or removed so squirrels dont jump from the tree branches to the roof. Bird feeders are a source of squirrel food. In order to reduce the amount of food available to squirrels, it may be necessary to stop using bird feeders.

Population reduction. Setting traps in the attic is a way to remove squirrels. However, traps must be inspected at least once each day and failure to do this is a violation of wildlife control regulations. Trapping also involves how to handle the trapped squirrels. Does the homeowner simply release the squirrel on-site, relocate the squirrel elsewhere or destroy the squirrel? Whatever is done, there are many state and local wildlife control regulations that must be followed. Therefore, your pest management professional is the best source to answer these questions and assist you in handling trapped squirrels.

Frightening Devices. Using strobe lights, radio noise or ultrasonic sound producers may discourage squirrels in attics or other confined spaces. However, these techniques are rarely effective for long because squirrels quickly get used to the frightening devices or may ignore the device altogether if they have young to care for.

Repellents. Squirrel repellents may be somewhat effective when properly used. However, repellent effectiveness is something that should be discussed with your pest management professional before investing money in repellents.

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Squirrel Infestations: Signs & Treatment – Orkin.com

Pest Control: Termites at The Home Depot

Identification of Termite

Termites and flying ants possess a very similar appearance, enough so that, without closer inspection, you may mistake one for the other. In order to effectively treat your pests, you must properly identify which insect is responsible for your infestation.

Ants

Thorax and constricted abdomen are clearly defined

Front pair of wings is larger than rear pair and only a little larger than the body

Distinct elbow-shaped antennae feature an elongated first segment

Termites

Ribbed abdomen is one continuous, thick piece with no visible waist

Two pairs of vein-filled wings are equal in length and twice the length of the body

Antennae are straight and somewhat short, and they have no eyes

In addition to identifying termites by sight, there are a number of signs that indicate their presence. Termites often build mud tubes, which are thin mud structures as small as -inch diameter, that connect the ground to your house, garage or other wooden structure.

Inspect wood structures closely for signs of decay by gently tapping on them. If a solid beam sounds hollow, chances are you have termite trouble. Discarded wings are a physical sign that termites may be in the house, as reproductive termites shed their wings once they find a new place to set up a colony.

Taking steps to prevent termites can save you a great deal of money. Moisture is an absolute necessity for termite colonies to survive and thrive, so eliminating damp areas around your house is essential to preventing termites.

While you should leave termite removal to the professionals, knowing the methods they will use can help you in understanding the best ways to treat the problem and help prevent it from recurring.

One popular termite-removal method involves treating the soil around your house with an insecticide, such as imidacloprid or fipronil. Wood can also be treated directly if termites are inside.

Termite baits are strategically placed around your yard to lure termites in. Once there, the termites are covered with a slow-acting insecticide or insect growth regulator. They then return to the colony and poison the other termites.

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Pest Control: Termites at The Home Depot

Bed bug control techniques – Wikipedia

Bed bugs, or cimicidae, are small parasitic insects. The term usually refers to species that prefer to feed on human blood.

Early detection and treatment are critical to successful control. According to a survey, the most commonly infested places are the mattress (98.2%), boxspring (93.6%), as well as nearby carpets and baseboards (94.1%).[1] In fact, bed bugs thrive in areas where there is an adequate supply of available hosts, and plenty of cracks and harborages within 1.5 metres (4.9ft) of the host.[2]

Because treatments are required in sleeping areas and other sensitive locations, methods other than chemical pesticides are in demand. Treatments can be costly, laborious, time consuming, repetitive, and embarrassing, and may entail health risks.

Bed bug infestations spread easily in connecting units and have negative effects on psychological well-being and housing markets. In response, many areas have specific laws about responsibilities upon discovering a bed bug infestation, particularly in hotels and multi-family housing units, because an unprofessional level of response can have the effect of prolonging the invisible part of the infestation and spreading it to nearby units.

Common laws include responsibilities such as the following: Lessors must educate all lessees about bedbugs, lessee must immediately notify lessor in writing upon discovery of infestation, lessor must not intentionally lease infested unit, lessee must not intentionally introduce infested items, lessor must eradicate the infestation immediately every time it occurs at a professional level including all connecting units, and lessee must cooperate in the eradication process.[citation needed]

In a 2015 survey, reports of bed bug infestation in social media lowered the value of a hotel room to $38 for business travelers and $23 for leisure travelers.[3]

Mapped bed bug reports graphically illustrate how difficult it can be to eliminate bed bugs in densely populated areas where many people live in adjacent units like in New York City, Los Angeles, and San Francisco.[4]

Though commonly used, the pesticide approach often requires multiple visits and may not always be effective due to pesticide resistance and dispersal of the bed bugs. According to a 2005 survey, only 6.1% of companies claim to be able to eliminate bed bugs in a single visit, while 62.6% claim to be able to control a problem in 23 visits.[1] Insecticide application may cause dispersal of bed bugs to neighbouring areas of a structure, spreading the infestation.[1]

Furthermore, the problem of insecticide resistance in bed bug populations increases their opportunity to spread. Studies of bed bug populations across the United States indicate that resistance to pyrethroid insecticides, which are used in the majority of bed bugs cases, is widespread.[1][5] Exterminators often require individuals to dispose of furniture and other infested materials. It is advisable to break or mark these infested items to prevent their being unintentionally recycled and furthering the spread of bed bugs.

The well-established resistance of bed bugs to DDT and pyrethroids has created a need for different and newer chemical approaches to the extermination of bed bugs. In 2008 a study was conducted on bed bug resistance to a variety of both old and new insecticides, with the following results, listed in order from most- to least-effective: -cyhalothrin, bifenthrin, carbaryl, imidacloprid, fipronil, permethrin, diazinon, spinosyn, dichlorvos, chlorfenapyr, and DDT.[6] Note that the first of these, -cyhalothrin, is itself a pyrethroid-based insecticide in the past it has been used principally for the treatment of cotton crops and so bed bugs have not developed a genetic resistance to it.

The German Federal Institut for Consumer Health Protection and Veterinary Medicine approved the following three agents for the treatment of bedbugs in 2000:

Up until the 1990s chlorpyrifos was used as an agent with longterm effect, but the EC biocide declaration 98/8 prohibited the use from August 2008 onward.[8]

Some manufacturers also offer fumigants containing sulfuryl fluoride.[9]

Non-residue methods of treatment such as steaming and vacuuming are preferable to the contamination of mattresses, pillows and bed covers with insecticides. The possible health effects of pesticides on people and pets ranging from allergic reactions to cancer have to be considered,[10] and acute neurotoxicity.[11][12][13] as well as the dispersal of bed bugs to neighbouring dwellings due to repellent effects of insecticides.

Bedbugs prefer to hide in and around the bed frame but it can still be a good idea to put a tight cotton cover on mattress and bedding to prevent access.

Bed bugs are developing resistance to various pesticides including DDT and organophosphates.[14][15] Some populations have developed a resistance to pyrethroid insecticides. Although now often ineffective, the resistance to pyrethroid allows for new chemicals that work in different ways to be investigated, so chemical management can continue to be one part in the resolving of bed bug infestations.[16] There is growing interest in both synthetic pyrethroid and the pyrrole insecticide, chlorfenapyr. Insect growth regulators, such as hydroprene (Gentrol), are also sometimes used.[17]

Populations in Arkansas have been found to be highly resistant to DDT, with an LD50 of more than 100,000 ppm.[18] DDT was seen to make bed bugs more active in studies conducted in Africa.[19]

Bed bug pesticide-resistance appears to be increasing dramatically. Bed bug populations sampled across the U.S. showed a tolerance for pyrethroids several thousand times greater than laboratory bed bugs.[20] New York City bed bugs have been found to be 264 times more resistant to deltamethrin than Florida bed bugs due to mutations and evolution.[21] Products developed in the mid 2010s combine neonicotinoids with pyrethroids, but according to a January 2016 survey published by the Journal of Medical Entomology, bed bug resistance in two major US cities now includes neonicotinoids.[22]

A population genetics study of bed bugs in the United States, Canada, and Australia using a mitochondrial DNA marker found high levels of genetic variation.[23] This suggests the studied bed bug populations did not undergo a genetic bottleneck as one would expect from insecticide control during the 1940s and 1950s, but instead, that populations may have been maintained on other hosts such as birds and bats. In contrast to the high amount of genetic variation observed with the mitochondrial DNA marker, no genetic variation in a nuclear RNA marker was observed. This suggests increased gene flow of previously isolated bed bug populations, and given the absence of barriers to gene flow, the spread of insecticide resistance may be rapid.

Isolation of humans is attempted with numerous devices and methods including zippered bed bug-proof mattress covers, bed-leg moat devices, and other barriers. However, even with isolated beds, bed bug infestations persist if the bed itself is not free of bed bugs, or if it is re-infested, which could happen quite easily.

It is convenient to place medium-sized belongings in sealed transparent plastic bags (such as plastic bags for freezing; larger models exist as well). Once closed, the tightness should be verified by pressing the bag and ensuring that air doesn’t exit. It is as well convenient to mark these sealed bags as ‘contaminated’/’decontaminated’.[citation needed]

Inorganic materials such as diatomaceous earth or silica gel may be used in conjunction with other methods to manage a bed bug infestation, provided they are used in a dry environment. Upon contact with such dust-like materials, the waxy outer layer of the insect’s exoskeleton is disrupted, which causes them to dehydrate.[24]

Food-grade diatomaceous earth has been widely used to combat infestations. However, it can take weeks to have a significant effect. Studies examined and compared diatomaceous earth and synthetically produced, pure amorphous (i.e. non-crystalline) silica, so-called silica gel. They investigated the use of these substances as a stand-alone treatment in real-life scenarios, and compared them to usual poisonous agents. They found that the effect of diatomaceous earth was surprisingly low when used in real-life scenarios, while the synthetic product was extremely effective and fast in killing bed bugs in such settings.[25][26]

Silica gel was also more effective than usual poisonous pesticides (particularly in cases with pesticide resistant bugs). When applied after being mixed with water and then sprayed, the outcome for silica gel was significantly lower, but still distinctly better than for the natural silica (used dry). Authors argued that the reason for the poor outcome for diatomaceous earth as a stand-alone treatment was multi-factorial. When tested in laboratory where the bed bugs had intensive, prolonged contact with diatomaceous earth and no access to a host, diatomaceous earth performed very well. Silica gel, on the other side, performed in vitro consistently well even if applied to bed bugs in extremely low doses and with very slight and short (often only seconds or few minutes) contact to the substance.[25][26]

Although occasionally applied as a safe indoor pesticide treatment for other insects, boric acid is ineffectual against bed bugs because bed bugs do not groom.[27]

A traditional Balkan method of trapping bed bugs is to spread bean leaves in infested areas. The trichomes (microscopic hooked hairs) on the leaves trap the bugs by piercing the tarsi joints of the bed bug’s arthropod legs. As a bug struggles to get free, it impales itself further on the bean leaf’s trichomes. The bed bugs and leaves then can be collected and destroyed.[28][29][30] Researchers are examining ways to reproduce this capability with artificial materials.[28][30]

Many claims have been made about essential oils killing bed bugs. However, they are unproven. The FTC is now filing a suit against companies making these claims about these oils, specifically about cedar, cinnamon, lemongrass, peppermint, and clove oils.[31]

Disposal of items from the contaminated area can reduce the population of bed bugs and unhatched eggs. Removal of items such as mattresses, box springs, couches etc. is costly and usually insufficient to eradicate infestation because of eggs and adults hiding in surrounding areas. If the entire infestation is not eliminated prior to bringing new or cleaned personal and household items back into a home, these items will likely become infested and require additional treatment.

Treating clothing, shoes, linens, and other household items within the affected environment is difficult and frequently ineffective because of the difficulty of keeping cleaned items quarantined from infestation. Many bed bug exterminating specialists recommend removing personal and household items from the infested structure. Many metropolitan areas offer more effective treatments such as high-heat dryers and dry cleaning with PERC with the added benefit of the treated items remaining stored until the affected home’s bed bug infestation is eradicated.

The improper disposal of infested furniture also facilitates the spread of bed bugs. Marking the discarded items as infested can help prevent infesting new areas. Bed bugs can go without feeding for 20 to 400 days, depending on temperature and humidity. Older stages of nymphs can survive longer without feeding than younger ones, and adults have survived without food for more than 400 days in the laboratory at low temperatures. Adults may live up to one year or more, and there can be up to four successive generations per year.[32]

Vacuuming helps with reducing bed bug infestations, but does not eliminate bed bugs hidden inside of materials. Also, unless the contents of the vacuum are emptied immediately after each use, bedbugs may crawl out through the vacuum’s hoses and re-establish themselves. Vacuuming with a large bristle attachment can also aid in removing hidden bugs as well.[citation needed]

Steam treatment can effectively kill all stages of bed bugs. To be effective, steam treatment must reach 150170 degrees Fahrenheit (65 – 75 degrees C) for a sustained period. Unfortunately, bed bugs hide in a diversity of places, making steam treatment very tedious, labour-intensive and time consuming. There is also the risk of the steam not penetrating materials enough to kill hidden bed bugs. The steam may also damage materials such as varnished wood, or cause mold from the moisture left behind. Effective treatment requires repeated and very thorough steaming of the mattress, box spring, bed frame, bed covers, pillows, not to mention other materials and objects within the infested room, such as carpets and curtains.

Infested clothes can be effectively treated by a high-temperature ironing with vapor. If performed meticulously, this method yields faster disinfection compared to high-temperature washing in a washing machine. However, attention should be paid in order to avoid bedbug escape from the ironed clothes.

For volumetric objects (e.g. pillow, blanket, sleeping bag, rug), boiling in a large saucepan for more than 10 minutes represents a reliable method. In this manner, the lethal temperatures propagate with certainty deep inside the object, which is not necessarily the case of a washing machine cleaning cycle.

For smaller objects, pouring boiling water from a kettle onto the object located in a basin may be enough to kill bed bugs and eggs.

Clothes dryers can be used for killing bed bugs in clothing and blankets. Infested clothes and bedding are first washed in hot water with laundry detergent then placed in the dryer for at least 20 minutes at high heat.[33] However, this does not eliminate bed bugs in the mattress, bed frame and surrounding environment. Sterilized fabrics from the dryer are thus easily re-infested. Continually treating materials in this fashion is labour-intensive, and in itself does not eliminate the infestation.

Placing belongings in a hot box, a device that provides sustained heat at temperatures that kills bedbugs, larvae, and eggs, but that does not damage clothing, is an option. Pest control companies often rent the devices at nominal cost and it may make sense for frequent travelers to invest in one.[citation needed]

This method of bed bug control involves raising room temperatures to or above the killing temperature for bed bugs, which is around 45C (113F).[34] Heat treatments are generally carried out by professionals, and may be performed in a single area or an entire building. Heat treatment is generally considered to be the best method of eradication because it is capable of destroying an entire infestation with a single treatment.

HEPA air filtration is normally used during any heat treatment to capture particulate and biological matter that may be aerosolized during the heating process.

Bed bugs can be killed by a direct one-hour exposure to temperatures of 16C (3F), however, bed bugs have the capacity for rapid cold hardening, i.e. an hour-long exposure to 0C (32F) improved their subsequent tolerance of 14 to 16C (7 to 3F),[35] so this may need to be maintained for longer. Freezer temperatures at or below 16C (3F) should be sufficient to eliminate bed bugs and can be used to decontaminate household objects. This temperature range should be effective at killing eggs as well as all stages of bugs.[36] Higher temperatures however are not effective, and survival is estimated for temperatures above 12C (10F) even after 1 week of continuous exposure.[36]

This method requires a freezer capable of maintaining, and set to, a temperature below 16C (3F). Most home freezers are capable of maintaining this temperature.

Preliminary research has shown the fungus Beauveria bassiana, which has been used for years as an outdoor organic pesticide, is also highly effective at eliminating bed bugs exposed to cotton fabric sprayed with fungus spores. It is also effective against bed bug colonies due to the spores carried by infected bugs back to their harborages. Unlike typical insecticides, exposure to the fungus does not kill instantly, but kills bugs within five days of exposure. Some people, especially those with compromised immune systems, may react negatively to the concentrated presence of the fungus directly following an application.[37]

Early research shows that the common drug taken to get rid of parasitic worms, ivermectin (Stromectol), also kills bed bugs when taken by humans at normal doses. The drug enters the human bloodstream and if the bedbugs bite during that time, the bedbug will die in a few days. Stromectol is also effective against mosquitoes, which can be useful controlling malaria.[38]

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Bed bug control techniques – Wikipedia

The Best Termite Control & Prevention Services

Prevent & Control Termites with Arrow Exterminators

Each year, termites invade millions of homes, causing billions of dollars in damage thats rarely covered by homeowners insurance. While theyre found in every state except Alaska, they are a significant threat in the South. Its not a matter of if your home will encounter termites but when, making termite control a necessity. A thorough inspection and home evaluation by a licensed termite professional is the first step in protecting your investment from these voracious pests.

Offering unsurpassed termite bonds since 1964, Arrow Exterminators goes Beyond the Call to protect your family’s health and property while caring for our environment. Today, Arrow Exterminators is proud to offer state of the art termite pest control solutions through our STEPS Total Protection System. STEPS utilizes our expertise in Integrated Pest Management for termite control and extermination combined with the most advanced technology available to provide industry-leading termite protection.

Contact us today to schedule your free inspection.

ARROW – THE #1 INSTALLER OF SENTRICON IN THE WORLD!

An integral part of the STEPS Total Protection System is the Sentricon System with Always Active , the most advanced termite protection system in the world. Sentricon is trusted to protect the White House and other national treasures and Arrow Exterminators is the #1 Installer of Sentricon in the world! Get the best from the best.

Termite Threats

Termites cause more than $5 billion in property damage every year. That is more than fires and storms combined! These insatiable pests primarily feed on wood, but will consume practically any wood-based product including books, furniture and even the insulation in your walls.

Termite Inspection: As Careful As It Is Thorough

At Arrow, the first step in our process is a complete evaluation of your entire home both inside and out. We never forget that you have welcomed us into your home and will always treat your home with care and respect.

The inspection begins with you sharing any signs you have noticed. Our highly trained and licensed professionals will then search for entry points, signs pest activity and any other areas of concern like high levels of moisture. Once complete, your Arrow professional will review all findings with you and recommend a custom solution to meet your specific needs.

Pencil-sized diameter or larger mud tubes running across bare concrete or masonry between the soil and any wooden part of your structure.

Thin, small, papery wings, all the same size and shape (3/8-1/2 inch long), found on your window sills, counter tops or floors (especially in the late spring and after a recent rain).

Thin, “bubbled” or distorted areas of paint or wood surfaces which feel cool to the touch.

Any wooden building parts (especially if they are support structures) begin to “sag” unexpectedly.

If you’re experiencing any of these warning signs, a termite exterminator can help. Termite control and prevention is the key to protecting your property. Working with Arrow Exterminators, you will receive unsurpassed termite protection using the most environmentally responsible methods available today.

Order a Free Whole Home Evaluation

ARROW TERMITE INSPECTION IN THE NEWS

Arrow representatives were recently interviewed regarding termite prevention tips and threats. Click the links below to view these segments:

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The Best Termite Control & Prevention Services

Greenix Pest Control

We have had many service technicians out at our house for the last 18 months doing routine service calls. Every one of them has provided excellent customer service. However, I would like to point out that Collin provided superior customer service at a time when we desperately needed reassurance that our house was protected from mice. He carefully went over our garage attic space and our basement crawl space and reported no signs of current mice activity in our house. I was so relieved that we chose your company to protect our house. Your inspector reaffirmed what we knew to be true. Were moving on soon to another state, but hopefully your company will continue to expand and we can do business again in the future. Kim & Derrick W. Pest Control Customer in Chicago

I was initially skeptical about their service and what they had to say about their product but for some reason I thought that the organic option might be a better option to try out than those nasty chemical options. We gave it a shot and were really happy that we picked Greenix to be our pest control vendor. They even backed up their service by following up on a timely basis and even doing free service calls if for some reason we saw something different in terms of bugs and insects. I am very pleased with their service and would happily recommend them to anyone of my friends and family!!! Y. Shah Pest Control Customer in Salt Lake City

Punctual, Reliable, and True to Word. We recently had a terrible flea problem that escelated right under our noses. Before we knew it it was completely out of control but having a new infant in the house I had been reluctant to have chemicals in the house. After talking with Brent though he really put my worries at ease and promised they would be out until the problem was resolved and at the set price, no hidden fees. Boy did they. I think they came out 5 times that first month, steam cleaned the carpets 3 times, and just gave it so much attention, follow up calls, punctual for EVERY appointment if not early. I was seriously impressed and so thankful. The problem is cleared up now and we are doing the quarterly service and as a nice perk now I see practically no spiders or other gross creepy crawlies! HIGHLY recommend this company. J. Kittrell Pest Control Customer in Dublin Ohio

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Greenix Pest Control

Exterminator in Connecticut – Bee Smart Pest Control

Our experienced staff membersare always ready to help you with your pest control needs.

Bee Smart Pest Control LLC is a commercial and residential pest management company. The Owner Chris Mojo has 15+ years experience treating pest problems in Connecticut. Weofferextermination services for insects and rodents like ants, spiders, termites, mice, rats, bee, wasps, bats, skunks, raccoons and more. We will inspect any issuefor FREE and develop a service that meets the needs of your property. You will always have the expertise of our A.C.E andprecision work of our highly trained technicians. Weservice homes, schools,offices, restaurants,bars, storage facilities, churches, theaters and more. We will never leave a problem unsolved and have a 100% satisfaction guaranty. All our work is put in writing so you know what to expect.We havepet and kid friendly materials,plus we offer organic services for the more sensitive areas like schools, playgrounds and gardens.

Call today for a free inspection and quote. (860) 333-6288 Click on our Contact Page or check out our Facebook page and leave a message there.

Bee Smart Pest Control LLC 2012-2018 – All Rights Reserved

“Chris took care of a wasp problem we had. He got rid of them quickly, which was great since I had a family picnic in three days!! Thank you Bee Smart.”Deb, Middletown, CT 2016READ MORE REVIEWS BY FOLLOWING THE LINK TO OUR FACEBOOK PAGE

WHAT TO EXPECT THIS TIME OF YEAR

For the opening of spring we are offering 10% off any new protection plan for any of these pests just mention this ad at time of booking. Call 860-333-6288

“Bee Smart was the only local pest control company to call me back. They came out (on time!), inspected my home and it a clean bill of health. He is friendly, knowledgeable and prompt – what else can you ask for in a stressful time? If I ever have a problem in the future, they will be the company I call.” Dana, Uncasville, CT 2018

“Chris is a true passionate professional businessman in the bug world. He calls you back, answers your questions and is honest! He understood my needs of pest control. And he even gave love to my 4 legged fur dog crew. Happy to report……….” Karen, Meriden, CT 2017

Office: (860) 333-6288

Fully Insured & Licensed With D.E.E.P

We Service Connecticut Only

CT LIC # B-3148, S-5842, A-0689

“Chris and Bee Smart have been simply awesome! Chris treated my home for mice and I am happy to say we are mouse free, in both my home and my shed. He is very educated on their behavior and worked on the problem from three different angles.”Kevin, Quaker Hill, CT 2015

An Associate Certified Entomologist is a certification earned through the Entomological Society of America. Chris, the owner has been tested and awarded the title.

We Have Five Stars on Facebook, Thumbtack, Angies List & Google +

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Exterminator in Connecticut – Bee Smart Pest Control

San Antonio Pest Control | Bed Bugs, Fleas, Rats …

Beeline Pest Control Texas is the most comprehensive pest control service in the greater San Antonio region including New Braunfels and Shertz, Texas. We provide expert extermination services for a wide range of pests, including: bed bugs, rats, roaches, spiders, wasps, mice, scorpions, ants, and more.

Unwelcome critters in your home are not just a nuisance, they may sting or bite a loved one or leave behind nasty things like fecal matter and disease. At Beeline Pest Control we believe the home should be a sanctuary for the people who live there and we’re dedicated to keeping homes pest free. Our technicians are screened and are professionally trained, because we want to bring you more peace of mind.

Having pests like cockroaches or rodents could spell disaster if seen in a business by a patron. Many exterminators fail to eliminate pests completelyinstead forcing you to make repeat calls and spending hundreds of dollars to resolve the problem. Beeline is different. A call to Beeline Texas is a call to remove pests for good! Our specialized pest treatments and expert exterminators guarantee a more thorough, longer lasting commercial pest control through precision extermination treatments and preventative planning against future problems.

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San Antonio Pest Control | Bed Bugs, Fleas, Rats …

Carpenter Ant Control – Get Rid of Carpenter Ants – Orkin.com

Latin Name

Camponotus spp.

What Do They Look Like?

Read more about carpenter ant identification.

These insects usually build their nests in damp, sound or decaying wood. Homes with moisture issues caused by leaks are prime targets for carpenter ants. The pests will also use tree branches that overhang roofs as a bridge, accessing buildings to find a way inside. Unsealed openings around utility pipes and wires are common entry points.

Cosmetic & Structural DamageWhen carpenter ants build nests, they dig out tunnels in wood, weakening it from the inside. A long-term infestation with multiple colonies in a home often means serious structural damage and unsightly cosmetic damage.

Workers and swarmers (winged ants)are the most likely sign homeowners observe.

What Orkin DoesIn controlling a carpenter ant infestation, it is necessary to first find the nest. Once identified, it can be removed or treated chemically. All moisture conditions that the ants found conducive must be corrected.

If treated early, serious structural damage to houses and buildings can be avoided. However, these ants could damage structures immensely if they continue undiscovered for an extended period.

DIY MethodsDIY control methods often involve incorrect procedures that can allow the colony to rebound when surviving members resume their burrowing and foraging.

Where Do They Live?Carpenter ants reside both outdoors and indoors in moist, decaying or hollow wood.

What Do They Eat?Carpenter ants do not eat wood as termites do, but instead remove wood and deposit the debris outside of their nests in small piles.

They will feed on a variety of food people eatparticularly sweets and meats. They will also feed on other insects.

Attraction to MoistureIn natural environments, carpenter ants dwell in both dead and living trees, stumps and rotting logs. However, they may also establish their nests inside of homes and buildings where wood is found, especially where wood has been exposed to severe moisture.

ReproductionQueens lays 9 to 16 eggs the first year and may live up to 25 years. Eggs complete their life cycle in about 6 to 12 weeks.

Ants of the genus Camponotus are known as carpenter ants because they prefer to establish their colonies in galleries excavated from damp or damaged wood. They cut galleries into the wood grain to form their nests and provide passageways for movement from section to section of the nest. This activity produces wood shavings mixed with parts of dead ants which provides clues to nesting locations.

Carpenter ants clean their nesting sites, and their galleries are not lined with mud or moist soil as termite galleries typically are. The workers keep their galleries as smooth as sandpapered wood.

Parent vs. Satellite ColoniesCarpenter ants build two types of nests: parent colonies and satellite colonies. Parent colonies consist of a queen, her brood, and workers. Satellite colonies consist of workers, older larvae, and pupae. Workers create satellite colonies when the parent colony lacks sufficient space or when there is a suitable supply of food or water. There may be several satellite colonies associated with a parent colony.

Carpenter Ant Identification: How to Identify a Carpenter Ant

What Does a Carpenter Ant Look Like?

Carpenter Ant Size

Life Cycle of Carpenter Ants

Carpenter Ant Larvae

Carpenter Ant Queens

Finding Carpenter Ant Nests

Carpenter Ant Infestation

Carpenter Ant Bites

Natural Carpenter Ant Pesticide

Red and Black Carpenter Ants

Boric Acid and Carpenter Ants

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Carpenter Ant Control – Get Rid of Carpenter Ants – Orkin.com


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